I think sauergut is important and imparts a fresh, tangy, yogurty flavor to the beer. It's very much in the background and you may not be able to pick it out unless you know what to look for, but it definitely lends a certain je ne sais quoi. It also supposedly has significant redox potential on its own, due to organic acids produced by the LAB that have antioxidant properties, as well as the oxygen scavenging capability of the LAB themselves who are purported to survive up to about 63-64c in the mash. FWIW, I add my sauergut to my strike water around 55c and give it a few minutes to circulate around before doughing in.
I still like WLP835 more than any other yeast I've tried.
I still like saaz and mittelfruh hops. I don't like too much late hopping. A 60 minute addition to hit 15-16 or so IBUs + 0.2-0.3 g/l aroma hops at 15-20 min or so seems to work well.
The mash needs to be adapted to the malt. The recent lots have had a really high gelatinization temperature and a low kolbach index (my most recent sack is 37). Doughing in at 55c or so and immediately heating to 65c for my beta rest, followed by alpha at 72 and mashout at 76c has gotten me 95-100% conversion efficiency. When I tried a simple 62/72/76 hochkurz with the same malt, I took a hit of about 15%.
Water treatment depends a lot on your water source. I think if your source water isn't RO and has some metals in it you will probably see improvements using a tannin like gallovin or brewtan. All of your equipment should be stainless steel, and it should shine like new before every brew day. If it doesn't then apply some PBW/BKF/elbow grease. I have the best results with about 30 mg/l SMB + 30 mg/l BB.
Paying attention to boiling is really important, but is highly system dependent. It took me a lot of batches to dial it in. Broadly speaking, the less you boil the wort (both in terms of intensity and time), the better it tastes and the less the color darkens. However, that's only up to a point, and if you cross that threshold suddenly you have nastyness like DMS in the wort/beer, or you get poor protein break which leads to haze, etc. You basically have to walk your system to the edge of the cliff until you're falling off, and then back off a little.
I make a fresh, well-aerated yeast starter for every batch because I don't like repitching. I make a 2-2.5 liter starter for about 15 liters worth of wort. I aerate after pitching with a 2 micron stone on a stainless steel wand hooked up to an aquarium pump with an in-line HEPA filter.
I like to pitch about 8c and ferment around 9-10c. Raising to 12c for spunding has worked fine for me too. I cold condition around 2-3c.Statistics: Posted by Techbrau — Tue Apr 11, 2017 9:39 pm
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