Kolsch Brewday Report
Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 5:07 pm
I made a planning post for a Helles Recipe on the reddit.com/r/lagerbrewing sub, but have been craving Kolsch, and wanted to give my new system a test batch before jumping into the Helles.
The System
I built a mash tun, after getting frustrated with the limitations of my BIAB system and my old cooler mash tun.
It features the standard output ball valve, with an inlet about 8 inches above it for recirculating the mash. I use a domed false bottom, because I didn't feel like paying for a custom one, and I use the canning rack that came with the kettle on above it. I doubt I need it, but I was worried about mash scorching with directly heating the tun. I realize now that it probably isn't needed.
The mash tun has a silicon "gasket" I made around the lid to prevent air from being transferred too much. I plan on running more tests, and the hope is to have a mash tun where I can fill, purge with CO2, and then "seal" it with a one way valve.
Boil kettle is nothing elaborate, just an aluminum kettle with a ball valve, and I will be adding a whirlpool arm.
The Recipe
Gewinner Kolsch
85% Pils (Weyermann)
12% Pale Wheat (Weyermann)
3% Carahell Malt (Weyermann)
13 IBU Tettnanger (1 oz, 3.9AA) @ FWH
11 IBU Tettnanger (1 oz, 3.9 AA) @ 30 minutes
2L Starter of WLP 029 Kolsch
The Process
So I filled my boil kettle with 9 gallons of water, boil it, chill it partially, add SMB, then transfer into the mash tun with the grain already in there. Checked my temp, and adjusted it accordingly to hit my standard Hochkurz temps.
I was getting nervous, as it seemed like conversion was taking forever. Usually by the time I raise to the second step I am ~60% done with conversion. This brewday I was at 1.020 by the time I raised temps. I ended up stirring the mash once, just to break up the grain that was so tightly clumped together.
Transferred to Boil Kettle again with First Wort Hops already in there. Raised heat and began to boil. Never in my 2.5 years and ~60 batches have I seen such a gnarly looking boil. I understand now why the Germans refer to it as "Breaking the Boil". Huge chunks of nasty looking protein scum made a film, which I scraped off as best I could without scooping out hops.
Boil went as expected, went on to chill using my new SS immersion chiller. I don't like immersion chillers much. Bulky, and the weight of the hoses made it bend and awkward to work with.
Into the fermenter, pitch yeast. Wait an hour to oxygenate, then oxygenate a second time after another hour.
The Results
Mash out DO : 0.84 PPM (sample taken from the boil Kettle after transfer).
Pre-pitch DO : 0.64 (sample taken from carboy)
Efficiency : 70%
The Takeaway
1. Get some fucking quick disconnects. Bargain fittings is where I went to purchase camlocks. I have no doubt that the splashing and the extra work led to more O2 uptake.
2. Ditch the unnecessary mash equipment. I will just use the false bottom. I don't think scorching will be an issue with the near constant recirc.
3. Build a water proof switch setup for the pump. This was a Frankenstein brew day, so I just manually plugged it in, away from the brew. I love the pump though, so much cleaner and easier.
4. Get pre-chiller set up. The groundwater was 70 degrees, and still took a while to get down to temp. My counterflow chiller has spoiled me.
5. Get a second burner. Right now I only use one, and I have been satisfied with that, but I think using my smaller burner during the mash to keep temps will prove to be much better.
Bonus :
Gallery of the brew day
The System
I built a mash tun, after getting frustrated with the limitations of my BIAB system and my old cooler mash tun.
It features the standard output ball valve, with an inlet about 8 inches above it for recirculating the mash. I use a domed false bottom, because I didn't feel like paying for a custom one, and I use the canning rack that came with the kettle on above it. I doubt I need it, but I was worried about mash scorching with directly heating the tun. I realize now that it probably isn't needed.
The mash tun has a silicon "gasket" I made around the lid to prevent air from being transferred too much. I plan on running more tests, and the hope is to have a mash tun where I can fill, purge with CO2, and then "seal" it with a one way valve.
Boil kettle is nothing elaborate, just an aluminum kettle with a ball valve, and I will be adding a whirlpool arm.
The Recipe
Gewinner Kolsch
85% Pils (Weyermann)
12% Pale Wheat (Weyermann)
3% Carahell Malt (Weyermann)
13 IBU Tettnanger (1 oz, 3.9AA) @ FWH
11 IBU Tettnanger (1 oz, 3.9 AA) @ 30 minutes
2L Starter of WLP 029 Kolsch
The Process
So I filled my boil kettle with 9 gallons of water, boil it, chill it partially, add SMB, then transfer into the mash tun with the grain already in there. Checked my temp, and adjusted it accordingly to hit my standard Hochkurz temps.
I was getting nervous, as it seemed like conversion was taking forever. Usually by the time I raise to the second step I am ~60% done with conversion. This brewday I was at 1.020 by the time I raised temps. I ended up stirring the mash once, just to break up the grain that was so tightly clumped together.
Transferred to Boil Kettle again with First Wort Hops already in there. Raised heat and began to boil. Never in my 2.5 years and ~60 batches have I seen such a gnarly looking boil. I understand now why the Germans refer to it as "Breaking the Boil". Huge chunks of nasty looking protein scum made a film, which I scraped off as best I could without scooping out hops.
Boil went as expected, went on to chill using my new SS immersion chiller. I don't like immersion chillers much. Bulky, and the weight of the hoses made it bend and awkward to work with.
Into the fermenter, pitch yeast. Wait an hour to oxygenate, then oxygenate a second time after another hour.
The Results
Mash out DO : 0.84 PPM (sample taken from the boil Kettle after transfer).
Pre-pitch DO : 0.64 (sample taken from carboy)
Efficiency : 70%
The Takeaway
1. Get some fucking quick disconnects. Bargain fittings is where I went to purchase camlocks. I have no doubt that the splashing and the extra work led to more O2 uptake.
2. Ditch the unnecessary mash equipment. I will just use the false bottom. I don't think scorching will be an issue with the near constant recirc.
3. Build a water proof switch setup for the pump. This was a Frankenstein brew day, so I just manually plugged it in, away from the brew. I love the pump though, so much cleaner and easier.
4. Get pre-chiller set up. The groundwater was 70 degrees, and still took a while to get down to temp. My counterflow chiller has spoiled me.
5. Get a second burner. Right now I only use one, and I have been satisfied with that, but I think using my smaller burner during the mash to keep temps will prove to be much better.
Bonus :
Gallery of the brew day