German Brewing

Looking for feedback on the following setup I am planning:

i.) BACKGROUND:

I brew small batches (1.2 gallons targeted in packaging) but will likely up this to around 1.5 to fill the 1.5 gal torpedo keg I plan on getting.

I am planning on brewing mostly Belgian Ales, with an emphasis on a series of original Trappist inspired recipes consisting of a Single, Dubbel, Tripel and Dark Strong.

I would like to keep the system simple with a small footprint.

1.) HEAT SOURCE:

I use a 12 qt. stainless kettle and my planed heat source is the Waring Pro SB30. It's a single plate burner with a diameter large enough for my small pot. It will be PID controlled with a switch for going between the PID and a boil control (VR with an SSR). Pump will be a small 12v solar pump capable of handling 100C.

2.) MLT/BK:

I'd like this to be a combined unit. Ideally I could have an outlet valve installed in conjunction with a false bottom. I like using leaf hops so the false bottom would be advantageous. Mashing can be done in a bag and a mash cap will be fashioned with a return in the top. I could pre-boil/pre-treat the water in this vessel, mash on this vessel and boil in this vessel, with the only transfer occurring from this vessel to the fermentor. I like the idea of installing the chiller in the lid.

Any thoughts?

3.) FERMENTATION:

I had originally thought about installing keg posts on one of my 2 gallon buckets and then having that feed my serving keg. I don't think this will be feasible so I'll likely have to get a 2.5 gallon keg for fermentation and 1.5 gallon keg for serving/conditioning. I'm still reading up on Spunding Valves and the use/purpose. I am currently spec'ing parts for a modified SoFC for use in lieu of a ferm fridge but will likely adapt a mini fridge for fermentation and serving.

4.) TEST EQUIPMENT:

Here is where I could use some advice. I don't currently have any of the major test equipment: DO meter, pH meter, etc. What units are necessary? I use Brun Water and have been comfortable this far with the predictions after measuring a few times with borrowed equipment and it seems that following the GBF procedure for Low O2 would get me in the DO ballpark.

Any thoughts?

I think your outline is well thought out and a reasonable place to start. I don't think a pH or DO meter is necessary if you are able to implement all avenues of oxygen reduction that the PDF suggests. Keep us posted on your batches.

I will. I'm going to try and do a mini mash for a Belgian Tripel grain bill coming up soon. Hopefully the Low O2 process doesn't change drastically by the time I get my gear together!

A problem that I would anticipate with a single-vessel system is the oxygen exposure/splashing/dripping that happens, upon removal of the grain bag.
But, this is only a guess, on my part.

The DO meter is not absolutely necessary, but it's a great tool to find the problematic areas of your brewing system/process.

Personally, I feel like a pH meter is a must.
One reason for this has recently hammered home, when Bryan purchased grain at our local supplier.
The pH of the grain was incredibly high & forced adjustments that he wouldn't have normally needed to make.
The Brunwater spreadsheet has no inputs for actual malt pH & assumes a pH, by the color listed.

I'm wondering if a simplified spreadsheet in the Brun Water style could be produced that ditches the color based estimation for a typical analysis approach and adds SMB input as well.

I may go to a separate MLT and BK setup to stay within the bounds of the PDF. I don't have the $ to spend on a DO meter. pH meter is definitely feasible but I can't justify a DO meter and per Kit's suggestions, the grain bag would be a variable here.

Ok. Because I'd like to try Low O2 before I die and purchasing a ton of fittings, extra equipment, etc is out of the question $$ wise at this moment, I have amended my original plan considering that my main focus is Belgian Trappist style ales. Here's goes it:

1.) MLT - I will maintain the use of my 2 gallon Coleman stacker for the time being. I'll do single infusion mashes with the no sparge approach in a bag to start out. I'll fashion a simple mash cap and perform all other mashing criteria from the PDF as written.

2.) COOLING OF STRIKE WATER - for now, in lieu of a SS IC, I will ice bath chill my strike water. I do 1.2 gallon batches so this should still provide me with quick cool down times.

3.) TRANSFERS - I will carefully gravity feed from MLT to BK.

4.) BK - my current kettle will stay the same but I am still going to throw a false bottom in.

5.) PACKAGING - I am going to try my ferm bucket to 1.5 gallon torpedo keg scenario using the closed transfer procedures I've seen employed by the members here. I am going to incorporate the use of a Spunding valve on the keg.