German Brewing

I recently upgraded my mill motor due to lack of hp for wet Milling, has anyone noticed it takes more ponies when wet Milling? Then did anyone crank the mill gap down more after going to malt conditioning? To what gap?

Do you mean milling conditioned malt, or actually milling a slurry of water and malt? I've only done the former. I want to say I am milling around 0.026" or 0.027" and my 15 amp corded drill handles it fine with my MM-2 pro.

How do you transfer power from the motor to the mill?

I strongly recommend to use a so that the power is transmitted efficiently by cancelling out misalignment and vibrations.

It makes a world of difference! It also protects your equipment from excessive wear and tear.

Generally a mill of this size should experience forces not in excess of 12-15 Nm (at startup). Your operating torque should be in the region of 5 Nm. These torques aren't big enough for you to require a keyed shaft. Using the clamp-on type is sufficient.

If the mill uses the (stupid) system of driving the shaft via a screw, take a coupling to connect to the diameter of the shaft. How to connect it to the motor can be done in similar fashion, or with the appropriate drill-bit.

These couplings are not expensive and I noticed far better power transmission and milling ability.

It's this mill: http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/s ... o-p100.htm

Nowadays I usually get close to 100% conversion efficiency, I.e. 1 pound of grain in 1 gallon of mash water would result in a gravity of 37-38 points.

Because I no-sparge, my losses are all due to absorption and mash tun deadspace. I usually figure about 0.1 gallon loss per pound of grain for absorption, and my mash tun deadspace is about 1 quart. My overall efficiency is going to depend on the batch size and OG.

here's my mill after motor upgrade. I use a mm3 mill. I have always used a direct drive love-joy coupler on my mill.

That setup looks great! How many RPM does the gearbox give?

175

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