German Brewing

So, after 4 years with the same system, I'm feeling the itch to upgrade my system and add a little more control over mashing and sparging. Currently I use a 10gal Rubbermaid cooler with an 8 gallon aluminum pot. I brew on the stovetop with the help of a 2000w electric heatstick. I occasionally brew 10 gallons with 2 keggles and a dual burner propane setup. I've done a number of infusions and short decoctions for step mashing, but with a new interest in LoDO brewing, I'm looking to get some more control with a recirculated mash. On top of that, I've already purchased a new 15 gallon kettle (for 5 and 10 gallon batches) with a whirlpool inlet and ball valve (I was siphoning from kettle to the carboy before).

Here's my planned setup. Please punch holes in my setup so that I can avoid DO pickup:

Have:
15gal Tall Boy Kettle w/ ball valve, diptube, and high port whirlpool tube.
10 gal Rubbermaid Cooler w/ nylon false bottom and ball valve
1/2" OD x 50' copper immersion chiller
March Pump (plastic head) -- I've never used this
Spunding Valve (I haven't used it for years--needs a new valve)
2000w heatstick + stove and/or propane burners
O2 setup with .5micron stone
Better Bottles with pressure transfer cap

First additions:
Cam Lock attachments and 1/2" ID silicone hosing for all valves, kettles, pumps
1/2" OD x 50' stainless immersion chiller
Mash Cap -- Foam insulation covered in SS foil.
Loc-Line recirculation and sparge return (attached to mash cap)
Second spunding valve

I'm planning to ditch the copper IC in favor of stainless. The new chiller will serve to function as both a HERMS and an Immersion chiller. I'm planning to attach camlock fittings to the ends so I can immerse the chiller in the sparge vessel (currently no ball valves on my other kettles) for maintaining temps and step mashing. It will also be used to bring boiled strike water back to strike temps. What limitations am I not seeing with this HERMS/chiller set up?

What can I add to the mash cap to limit O2 ingress around the edges? Is the plastic head on the pump viable for limiting O2 pickup? Or would stainless be any better?

I'm planning to do no-sparge brewing until I can have a dedicated sparge vessel with a valve. That vessel will be the part of the...

Second additions:
15gal Stainless Kettle (looking at the Concord kettles for a Benjamin)
Ball valve
Whirlpool return
$20 food grade 12v Chinese magnetic pump
PID for automated temp control

Is a whirlpool return (for keeping sparge water moving around the HERMS coil) OK for LoDO brewing? Or should I skip this addition? I'm guessing any hazards with the small plastic pump will be the same as the plastic head on the march pump. What other items should I be buying to get ready (other than an DO meter)?

My other concern is about cleaning the new setup--the current setup is a breeze. What can I change to limit the amount of cleaning I need to do?

Don't fret over the edges of the mash cap. I ditched all of my inline pumps heads in favor of the center inlet, which only comes in stainless. No-sparge is actually the preferred method for optimizing lodo. Looks good

If you can, then try and get a proper pump with bypass. I am not that impressed with the chugger/March pump design and find them quite expensive considering the design.

Maybe it's nitpicking, but a decent pump is worth its salt.

Starting at 420€. Ouch.


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The brew ferm 1/2" (15mm) pump is just a tick over 100€

It has a much better housing and is less than what we pay for Chugger or March pumps.

Here are a few videos of my micro 12vdc pump in action:

https://cathedralofbeer.wordpress.com/equipment/

These things are <$15 all day on eBay, handle 212 °F and accept NPT fittings.