German Brewing

I am fairly new to lager brewing, and still finding my way through the fermentation. Currently using the Brulosopher Lager method (http://brulosophy.com/methods/lager-method/) and have had good results doing so. But I was interested in what others may do with their lagers.

I am not very patient, so the quicker the lager method the better for me. That said, I want the cleanest drinkable beer possible.

Thanks

Thats a great question, and one I don't think you will find a definitive answer to. As Marshall eluded too, this "method" is not new or his own( though he has his own take on it). I have followed the Narziss schedule, for quite some time ( maybe like `04 or so), I(you, anyone) can make some great clean lagers with this method, there is no doubt... but its not necessarily all about the clean lager, maybe one wants some trace sulfur to hang around, maybe something else? Point being, I don't think there is a one size fits all answer. My advice to all is, if what you are doing makes you happy and content don't change.... because its not always greener on the other side As I eluded to I have used the Narziss method for some time, and with that being said, one of my best beers to date was a single temperature of 48f for the entirety of fermentation.... was it the recipe? was it the fermentation? who knows!

Haha this guy^

I too have done the accelerated fermentations quite a bit. I've switched to a more traditional fermentation schedule recently, ie high 40's primary, racking to pressurized secondary around 60% attenuation, then slowly ramping down to finish around 40, before lagering.

If anything, the cold fermentation produces more "lager character" in the form of residual fermentation byproducts and such, that lager aroma, but the difference is so small, I'd consider it the final 2% or so towards "perfection", whatever that means to you.

In short, don't sweat it if you don't have the patience, you can still make good beer with accelerated fermentation, and a lot of breweries probably do. You're not losing a whole lot by speeding it up, recipe, mashing, and yeast strain selection will make a far greater impact on what ends up in your glass.

Not all fermentation schedules suit every yeast strain. Even amongst lager yeasts there are notable differences in how they need handling. Some respond well to a 'cold' fermentation schedule (7-9 Celsius), whereas others respond better to a 'warm' fermentation schedule (10-13 Celsius).

Unnecessarily straing your yeast will produce off-flavours which will show quickly in a Helles. That's why the correct temperature range is so important, as well as correct oxygen levels.

For e.g. I found that WLP820 responds very well to the warm schedule, whereas WLP838 is happier with the cold schedule.

Fermentation is THE key to a successful Helles. For the impatient, my WLP820 schedule produces great beers within 21 days. I often tag another week onto it but found that it seldom made any difference.

Here is the link https://edelstoffquest.wordpress.com/20 ... mian-pils/

It is understood that the beer is then filtered since the time-frame is too short for the unwanted byproducts to drop out. If one prefers not to filter, then a three month lager period may well be unavoidable.

I'm still learning how to make lagers and I'm looking forward to a drop in temperature so that I can start brewing in my garage. The last lager that I brewed was a Marzen that I brewed in late February last year and tapped in October. At three months it was still green; at four months I felt that it had started to make a turn towards a finished beer; by October it turned out to be a great beer.

When I brew in January I'll be fermenting with a Blichmann 14 1/2 gallon Fermenator; it represents a welcome change as I won't have to move heavy carboys anymore. My fermentation schedule will include a primary fermentation with Safale 34/70 yeast at 50F for two weeks, then a dump of trub and yeast every day or so until the beer is fairly clear. I plan to test the beer with a sugar meter and transfer the beer to kegs when the sugar level is still high enough to ensure natural carbonation in the keg.

Hmmmm, two weeks primary is a very long time. You might be at max EVG and won't have any sugars left for carbonation.

It's just a range - the actual transfer to the keg to be determined by hydrometer readings and (hopefully) the use of a residual sugar meter. I'm still trying to find out whether the Accuvin or Clinitest meters that are used by wine makers can be used by brewers. I don't see why not, as carbonation shouldn't interfere with the reading.

Surely they work, but you could just as well transfer at 2% above EVG (can be determined by a FFT provided you use the same yeast). I just pull a sample of the fermenting beer in my cylinder and leave it indoors. With lagers that works quite well since its automatically at a much higher temperature.

For a really long fermentation schedule a few more things need to happen, esp ensuring a healthy and fast start of fermentation. Then ensuring that the fermentation after transfer doesn't continue too strong and finishes too early.

Surely they work, but you could just as well transfer at 2% above EVG (can be determined by a FFT provided you use the same yeast). I just pull a sample of the fermenting beer in my cylinder and leave it indoors. For lagers that works quite well since its automatically at a much higher temperature.

The traditional long fermentation schedule requires a few more things to happen, esp ensuring a healthy and fast start of fermentation.

Once in secondary the challenge is that fermentation doesn't continue too strong and finishes too early, not making the yeast dormant due to lowering the temperature too fast.