Single Vessel LODO Planning

Wort making

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UnsungSavior16
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Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby UnsungSavior16 » Wed Nov 30, 2016 5:28 pm

Techbrau
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby Techbrau » Wed Nov 30, 2016 5:50 pm

How about an induction plate instead of an electric heating element?

These work well for me as floating mash caps
https://www.amazon.com/Concord-Cookware ... s+cake+pan
If you always do what you've always done, then you'll always get what you've always gotten.
UnsungSavior16
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby UnsungSavior16 » Wed Nov 30, 2016 6:07 pm

Thought about that, specifically

I've got ongoing concerns about induction, primarily that it won't be able to measure the temperature accurately enough, and the kettle I have in mind is too large (15.5").

Thankfully,. I've got a SS lid already that'll fit the interior diameter of the kettle very well.
caedus
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby caedus » Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:09 pm

There are some issues with induction, but I just brewed my first batch on my 2 vessel lodo BIAB hybrid system (?) that uses SS Brewtechs on induction burners. I don't like the SS Brews but the Induction is awesome.

I had to wire up my garage for it which was crappy, but I am super happy with them.

http://homebrewacademy.com/induction-brewing/
UnsungSavior16
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby UnsungSavior16 » Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:20 pm

Unfortunately I'm not in a position right now to do any re-wiring, or have anything re-wired. Likely won't be a home owner for quite a long time. I really want to get the single vessel e-biab to work, and honestly if I'm not going to have problems with the 2000W element then I'll be good to go.

Should only draw 16-ish amps at 120V, chugger pump will pull 1.5 roughly, so I'll be good for my 20 Amp circuit. Should be at least.

The second option is still in the cards as well, two 1500 W Ultra Low Density Element that plug into different parts of the house.

Edit: I've also considered the 120V Boil Coil, but I need to measure if it will fit with the false bottom.
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lupulus
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby lupulus » Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:06 pm

With Blichmann elements you won't have any scorching at all. There are as gentle as steam.
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lupulus
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby lupulus » Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:09 pm

Look at the High Gravity eBIAB systems. They will have most of what you need. You just need to get a Brew Bag and modify the recirculation to reach inside the mash.
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mchrispen
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby mchrispen » Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:10 pm

Lupulus brews in effectively what you are describing, with a High Gravity controller. He is having excellent results. He might be able to alleviate your concerns with the electric element, but his is a 220v model. I have a 110v 1400w HotRod from brewhardware.com to supplement heating, and it doesn't scorch the wort... just don't dry fire one.
UnsungSavior16
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby UnsungSavior16 » Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:13 pm

I've looked at those systems per the advice of mchrispen, which are actually what led to my interest in the boil coil!

Right now,my primary concern with that sort of a system (which I'd probably build myself since it is what I'm aiming to do, roughly) is the lack of sitting flush with the mash.

The kettle uses a basket to prevent the bag from touching the coil, said basket sits on an inside rim and is slightly modified so that there is enough space for the boil coil. If I make a mash cap that sits flush with the basket, that seems like more of a chance for oxygen exposure in the mash since the basket has holes, obviously, and there would be space between the basket and the inside kettle wall.

I could be really overthinking it, which would be good news because it would mean my problem is solved.

Edit: Speak of the handsome devil.
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bensonledbetter
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Re: Single Vessel LODO Planning

Postby bensonledbetter » Thu Dec 01, 2016 2:45 pm

My approach is to use a kettle mounted 1500 ULWD watt element. It functions like a RIMS and works just fine.. If desired, you could use a 5500 watt ripple element at 120v, which would put you at 1375 watts and make your wattage density insanely low. Maybe not as low as the BoilCoil, but still really, really low. And you should still be able to do 4 gallon batches with that one element.

I also have two 1500 watt ULWD Hot Rods from Bobby at BrewHardware.com that I use for supplemental heat when needed, but I do 6+ gallon batches. (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm)

To keep the bag off the element I bought one of those nifty BIAB false bottoms, also from BrewHardware.com. (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom15.htm)

I would highly recommend that you avoid using the steamer basket as used in the High Gravity system. This style of basket has provided nothing but major headaches for many forum frequenters on HBT who have recirculating eBIAB systems, myself being one of them.

And to address the wort return, I made a mash cap out of a stainless cake pan, a bulk head and some loc line. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P ... UTF8&psc=1)

Just to throw another option out there to you since you're just getting started with planning your build, have you heard of the new Mash & Boil at William's Brewing? (https://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWERS ... P4216.aspx)

For $300 you get an all in one wort maker. It's a phenomenal deal. Add a pump if you desire to recirculate, add a chiller, mash cap, and you're good to go. Vessel volume is only 7.5 gallons, so if you want to stay with a no sparge process you'd have to drop your batch size, or you can just sparge if you want to keep it at 4 gallons.

Hope some of this rambling helps.

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